Your Barbie by Year
Your
Restoration Questions Answered
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Identification Help
(Photo used with permission from
'Paintings that
Fly')
Please also refer to the Barbie
by Year section on this site
**I do not identify dolls via email, nor can I verify authenticity, unless
I see the doll in person. I do offer this as a paid service. Please email
me if you would like to send your doll or collection for a written appraisal.
An appraisal fee + return shipping costs will apply.**
HERE IS
THE MOST COMMON QUESTION I RECEIVE:
Q. My doll is stamped on her mid back, '1966 Mattel made
in Malaysia.' Does the date represent the year it was
made?
A. The 1966 date is a patent date only and NOT a date of production!
Even the Barbies made today have this very confusing 1966 date on their backs.
The true vintage and mod Barbies are stamped on their right buttocks and are made in
Japan only. The mold
date for the majority of these dolls is 1958.
Q. Is the Ponytail Barbie's number based on the head?
A. There are a lot of attributes which determine what number ponytail you have; head (flocking or no flocking), eyeliner color, eye color, soft or coarse bangs, hair color, lip color and
shape..), and also on the body (tan or pale, solid or hollow, markings...). NOTE:
Below is a photo of a Blond #5. For more information on the various ponytails,
please click here.
Q. It says on your site that the original
dolls are made in Japan. Does this mean the ones that say 'Made in China' or
Malaysia, etc. are not authentic dolls? I have tried to find out but can't seem
to find an answer.
A. The term "original" refers to the vintage Barbies. The post
made-in-Japan era represents the modern Barbies.
Q. Do you know what the numbers signify that appear on a Barbie's left
buttocks and/or inner thighs?
A. These are simply mold identification numbers, and they have no significance
to collectors. If
Mattel's quality control found something wrong with the dolls during production,
the original mold could be traced by this number and thus the problem could be corrected.
Q. How can I tell the difference between a Midge/Barbie® body
and a Barbie® body?
A. Barbie bodies were used only for pre-1963 Barbie® dolls.
There are several versions but they are all marked Barbie MCMLVIII.
From 1963 Midge/Barbie bodies were used for BOTH straight leg Barbie® and Midge®.
They were marked with both Barbie and Midge and with © 1958 and 1962.
The Midge/Barbie body was used for post-1963 ponytails and bubblecuts.
It was also used for swirls®, Midge® and fashion queens®.
The Midge/Barbie markings were also used on mod (pink skin) Standard Barbies®. These dolls are
easily identified by their pinker, more transparent color and are normally referred to as 'Standard' bodies.
Q. What is a 'transitional' ponytail?
A. There is one 'transitional' ponytail that is commonly found. This is doll is a mix of
both #3 and #4 body parts. For example, a #3 doll with the faded torso of a #3
body and yet the tan arms and legs of a #4 body. The transitional ponytail can be found
with any combination of #3/#4 parts. I have also seen transitional #4/#5 bodies
(with either the #4 or #5 head).
Q. How can you tell an early Bubblecut from a later one?
A. The first year (1961) bubbles have 'Barbie' bodies and typically their hair is often
(but not always) in
a 'tight' bubble 'do' -- though not always!
They have red lips (exception is the white Ginger which has light pink lips) and
red nails.
From 1962 on, the dolls tend to have fluffier bubbles, coral, white or pink (watermelon pink in 1962)
and coral nail polish (watermelon pink nails in 1962).
From 1963 on, they also have the 'Midge/Barbie' bodies since that is when Midge
joined the Barbie family.
For more great information and photos of
bubbles, click here
A. The first Ken (1961) had the flocked hair but the second (1962) and third (1963) Kens had the painted hair.
The second Ken is a wee bit taller than the third Ken. Also, the third Ken's hips are really swingy and loose, and his knees are a bit more 'knobby.' His markings also include 'Hawthorne, California.'
As for worth, I think that both painted hair versions sell for about the same.
Q. I bought a gorgeous #4 Blonde Ponytail. When I took off her swimsuit I realized that she had a straight mark across each leg.... almost looked like the leg was broken off at the hip and re-glued.
A. These lines are 'mold marks' and are not a concern to collectors. I often see this on the #4 Ponytails.
NOTE: Below is a photo of a brunette #4.
A. The actual 'part' should be made up of thatched hair running down two parallel lines on the doll's right side of her head.
There is also another little trick to help you determine a true side part -- On the forehead, right at the beginning of the part, there should be
a single little plug of hair all by itself.
Click here to see some pictures of true side part bubblecuts.
Q. Can you tell me how do you know a brownette Barbie® from a brunette? Thanks.
A. Brownettes were made only in 1961 so they tend to have the shorter bubble hair style.
They often have greasy faces and have red lips, 'Barbie' bodies, red nail polish, etc.
Their hair is a mouse 'brown' color - That year they made blondes, titians, ravens, white gingers and brownettes.
The brunettes came out in 1963 and have coral, white or pink lips and usually fuller bubble hair do's.
See the Fall 1997 issue of Millers, a brunette is the 'cover girl' for this issue and they show many examples!
Photos of true brownettes can be seen in both the Before/After section on my site and also in the Barbie by Year section.
Q. I received a #5 Ponytail. It looks like the legs have been painted. There is some obvious flaking around the ankles and a couple slight drip marks...
A. Your doll sounds like she has the harder to find factory painted legs. For some reason Mattel painted these legs (I heard it was to simulate stockings or perhaps because they didn't like the grayish tones of the tan vinyl). Of course you will want to leave these original and be extremely careful not to further damage the paint. NOTE: Below is a photo of a brunette #5 and a blonde #5.
true that Mattel could have originally sold them this way?
A. While I cannot say that this particular doll was not 'pieced together,' it is very common to find dolls that have one leg or one arm longer than the other (especially seen on the #1 - #4 bodies). One needs to remember that Mattel was simply making toys and not fine collectibles. Mattel was not concerned with many of the details that may bother us as collectors.
Q. How much is my doll worth?
A. Normally the best way to quickly determine current market value is to do a
search on auction sites for similar items that have recently ended. Buyers
determine the value through their bidding.
I would also happy to help you identify/appraise your vintage treasure, but I
must see your doll in order to give you a fair and accurate assessment.
I do offer a written appraisal service. Please email me for more information if
you are interested.
Barbie (and Friends) by Year -- Information and photos that will assist you in identifying your Vintage/Mod Barbies and friends
How to care for and display your valuable collection
Hair - General information about cleaning, re-flocking and re-rooting
Bodies - General information about cleaning and repairing
Faces - General information about caring for the faces, green ear treatment, neck split repair, and re-coloring Mod dolls
The general information
I have chosen to include on these pages is here as a courtesy
to collectors of Vintage and Mod Barbies® and friends.
I am
unable to answer your 'how-to' restoration emails, nor do I provide further step
by step instruction.
This Web site is for your personal and non-commercial use only. You may copy
information on this Web site for your own personal use, however other than copying for
personal use, you may not copy, modify, distribute, transmit, display, perform, reproduce,
publish, license, create derivative works from, transfer, or sell any information obtained
from this Web site.
Every reasonable effort has been taken by me to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained within this entire web site. However, I take no responsibility for any losses,
injury or detriment whatsoever, real or implied, arising from the information and/or
references contained within this entire site.
Before continuing any further, please
carefully read my disclaimer page.
Please note that
I have limited (or no) experience with non-Mattel fashion dolls, modern Mattel fashion
dolls (anything newer than 1970 and/ or not made in Japan), or any other
types of dolls.
**I do not identify
dolls via email, nor can I verify authenticity, unless
I see the doll in person. I do offer this as a paid service. Please email
me if you would like to send your doll or collection for a written appraisal.
An appraisal fee + return shipping costs will apply.**
